The Freedom to Dress Still Cannot Be Overstated
Last December, Highsnobiety covered the myriad ways transgender and nonbinary Americans’ rights were jeopardized in 2023. “The Freedom to Dress Cannot Be Overstated,” we called the piece, because while we talk a lot about personal style, we don’t always stop to acknowledge what it means to be able to have personal style — that is, having personal, bodily autonomy and industries that support a wide spectrum of self-expression. And where one (bodily autonomy) is constantly under threat, the other (an industry that supports personal expression) still has a long way to go.
In light of the upcoming US presidential election, we thought it was time to check back in on the state of our freedom to dress the way we want to. There’s good news, but there’s also not-so-good news.
First, some context: An estimated 1.6 million Americans are trans and/or nonbinary, including 300,000 youth. “Transgender” is an umbrella term for people whose gender identity does not align with the gender they were assigned at birth; “nonbinary” is a specific trans identity that exists beyond the male/female binary our society (and by extension, the fashion industry) enforces.
In 2024, state lawmakers continue to take aim at trans people’s basic freedoms, attempting to restrict trans youths’ access to everything from medically necessary healthcare to school bathrooms and locker rooms that match their gender identity. Meanwhile, recent polling indicates that LGBTQ+ acceptance in America is at an all-time high. “This perceived paradox can be traced back to a vocal minority of anti-LGBTQ+ extremists attempting to dominate the narrative,” Alex Schmider, senior director of entertainment and transgender inclusion at GLAAD, tells Highsnobiety.
Anti-LGBTQ+ animus has created a climate where trans and nonbinary youth — the demographic most frequently targeted by these political attacks — are increasingly fearful to express themselves authentically. This includes everything from their name and pronouns to the clothing and accessories they wear as an extension of their gender expression. According to one recent survey from the Trevor Project, nearly two out of three LGBTQ+ youth said that hearing about anti-LGBTQ+ political attacks in their state or city made their mental health “a lot worse.”
“Transgender people do not live in the abstract,” Gillian Branstetter, communications strategist with the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), tells Highsnobiety. “It’s not just rhetoric. These policies, including the criminalization of so much of our life, put us directly in danger.”
Here’s the good news: Compared to this time last year, there’s actually been a slowdown of new anti-LGBTQ+ legislation. “It’s a little early to say that it’s anything like a fever breaking,” says Branstetter, “but we’ve seen fewer bills introduced and fewer bills becoming law, which is certainly welcome after three extremely rough years.”
Schmider also points to some encouraging wins for trans representation in media, including actress Nava Mau’s portrayal of Teri, a trans Latina character, in the hit Netflix series Baby Reindeer. Fair and accurate depictions of trans characters matter so much because “familiarity can help demystify who trans people are and accelerate acceptance,” says Schmider. And widespread acceptance is a powerful counterweight to hateful animus.
That same logic applies to the fashion industry, too, which has been notoriously slow to highlight trans and nonbinary talent across disciplines. New York Fashion Week only showcased its first openly trans designer, Pierre Davis of No Sesso, in 2019; Ariel Nicholson, the first trans model to appear on the cover of Vogue, shattered that lavender ceiling just three years ago.
In this political climate, trans representation in fashion is vital, and we’ve still got a ways to go. Below, find a recap of some major moments for trans visibility and equality — in the worlds of fashion, entertainment, and politics — from the first half of 2024. These tallies are most likely nonexhaustive. Not every trans person is out publicly (nor wants to be, for that matter, which is totally valid). But the numbers do paint a portrait of where we’ve made progress and where trans visibility is noticeably scant.
Trans and nonbinary celebrities at the Met Gala: 6
From comedian-playwright Cole Escola to model-actress Hari Nef, trans and nonbinary celebrities stunned on the Met Gala red carpet in May. We counted at least six in total, up from four in 2023.
Trans and nonbinary designers on the official NYFW Fall/Winter 2024 calendar: 1
There was only one nonbinary designer on the CFDA-sanctioned schedule for NYFW in February: Jackson Wiederhoeft of Wiederhoeft, who uses “any pronouns used with respect.” Also of note: Stalwart design houses like Collina Strada, LaQuan Smith, and Sandy Liang made it a point to feature trans and nonbinary models on their runways.
Trans and nonbinary models who walked in NYFW: 14
More than a dozen trans and nonbinary models walked in shows at NYFW in February, including TikTok star Maddie Whitley and Collina Strada mainstay Aaron Rose Philip. That’s on par with last year.
Mainstream fashion magazines with trans and nonbinary celebrities on the cover: 2
In January, model Richie Shazam graced the 40th anniversary cover of Paper magazine alongside their friend Julia Fox. Pioneering actress Laverne Cox also scored a coveted spot on British Vogue’s 40 “legendary” women cover. (Back in 2019, Cox became the first openly trans person to cover the magazine.)
Trans and nonbinary editors of mainstream fashion magazines: 0
Trans and nonbinary celebrities recently featured on Vogue’s Instagram: 1
Model Hunter Schafer gets frequent call-outs on Vogue’s Instagram (and for good reason), but she’s the sole trans and nonbinary celebrity who was mentioned by name on the page recently.
Trans and nonbinary artists who won at the GRAMMYs: 0
While music’s biggest night was good to queer artists — including first-time GRAMMY winner Miley Cyrus (Record of the Year, Best Solo Pop Performance) and Best New Artist winner Victoria Monét — no openly trans or nonbinary artists took home an award in a major category. In fact, few were even nominated, Janelle Monáe being a notable exception.
Trans and nonbinary actors who won at the Oscars: 0
No trans or nonbinary actors won in any of the major categories at this year’s Academy Awards. However, Killers of the Flower Moon star Lily Gladstone, who uses nonbinary pronouns, was in the running for Best Actress in a Leading Role.
Trans and nonbinary characters on primetime television: 24
For the second year in a row, GLAAD’s “Where We Are on TV” report noted a “dramatic decrease” in trans characters on television. Of the 468 LGBTQ+ TV characters total, “24 are trans (5 percent) and 10 of those won’t be returning [next season],” says Schmider. “That’s a nearly 60 percent drop-off in trans representation on television.”
Anti-LGBTQ+ bills being tracked by the ACLU: 515
This year so far, the ACLU has documented 515 anti-LGBTQ+ bills — from restrictions on gender-affirming healthcare to bills that would forcibly out trans kids in schools — in 42 states nationwide. (Per the Equality Federation, 245 of these bills are holdovers from 2023 that carried over into this year’s legislative session.) Many specifically take aim at the rights of trans and nonbinary Americans.
Anti-LGBTQ+ bills defeated: 272
Anti-LGBTQ+ bills passed into law: 35
According to Branstetter, 2024 has seen fewer anti-LGBTQ+ bills advance and become law than in previous years. “I think some of the more worrisome have been healthcare bans like the one we saw pass in Ohio,” she adds. The law in question, Ohio HB 68, was codified in January after state House and Senate lawmakers overrode the governor’s veto.
Drag bans being tracked by the ACLU: 25
Sixteen of these anti-drag bills have already been defeated, and if last year’s unanimous shutdown of these laws is any indication, any future drag-related restrictions are unlikely to go into effect. “To be honest,” says Branstetter, “it would be a five-alarm fire for free expression in this country if they weren’t [blocked in court].”
